Costa Rica

Huckleberry Finn and Backpacking

This Costa Rican boy was on a Pacific beach, not the Mississippi River, but still he reminded me of Huckleberry Finn.  And so he also reminded me of one of my dreams: to float down the world’s major rivers—the Nile, Amazon, Mekong, and Yangtze in particular—and invite one or two members of the local broken humanity onto my raft.  We’d fish and chat and cuss, and I’d jot down notes as we rounded a thousand bends (and bypass several dams).

Mark Twain, at the beginning of his book The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn, warns, “Persons attempting to find a motive in this narrative will be prosecuted; persons attempting to find a moral in it will be banished; persons attempting to find a plot in it will be shot.”  Well, since I’ve always thought some things are worth suffering and dying for, back in 2003 I sat on the Great Wall of China and wrote the following:

Few stories illustrate the wall-breaching value of travel as well as Mark Twain’s account of Huckleberry Finn and Jim’s journey down the Mississippi.  Through adventure and conversation, a white boy and a runaway slave came to develop a sort of friendship, something that wouldn’t have been possible had they stayed put in their normal situations in life.  Like Huckleberry Finn and Jim’s nineteenth-century drifting down the Mississippi, backpacking through distant lands in the twenty-first century is to journey into a complicated world of divisions and prejudices.  Both journeys hold the possibility of getting lost and being found.  Both are ways of living on the edge of society, of escaping it as a means to discover what it is missing and what it could be—or maybe even what it has possessed all along that for some reason you couldn’t see before.  Both are movements beyond black and white and into a shared humanity.  Both take you not only to scenic viewpoints; they carry you beyond the horizon itself, where transformation awaits and where you may even discover why you left home.

If interested in reading the full chapter from which this excerpt is drawn, click on A Journey Begins.

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Blinded on a Costa Rican Beach

If you visit Costa Rica’s Marino Ballena National Park at sunset and see a couple walking into the blazing light, you might take a picture.  Later, in looking at the picture, you might decide you like how it could lead one to ask, “Is this couple on a remote beach and all alone, or are they part of a long line of others who are traveling the same road (as evidenced by the footprints)?”  What you really like about the photograph, however, is the way it illustrates the problem of extremism.

When I looked toward the violent light of the setting sun, it was absolutely blinding.  It made balanced seeing impossible, for it obliterated part of the sky and sand.  My eyes cowered before it, and my mind tried to make sense of how a fair chunk of the landscape was simply blown out, gone.  When I turned away from the scene and opened my eyes fully again, everything appeared spotted and discolored.  Several minutes passed before my vision fully recovered.

There is something attractive about extremes, inlcuding the extreme light of a setting sun.  Extremes are definitive and bold.  They push out nuance and complexity.  They burn with awesome simplicity and confidence.  But through this act of marked over (or sometimes under) exposure, they also—and here’s my point—declare that parts of a landscape are not worth seeing.  And so while I love a strong sunset, I’m glad that the sun isn’t always setting, because I don’t want to see just part of a landscape.  I want to be where light, because it is spread across the spectrum rather than slammed to one end, elucidates rather than obscures.  And I want this not just at the beach but also in Pakistani politics, in American churches, in Israeli and Palestinian ways of thinking about history and each other.  I want it in Congress and on Wall Street, and when I’m talking with my friends.  I want it in literature, in my writing, and in what I see on the news.

In Milan Kundera’s book The Unbearable Lightness of Being, there is a scene in which two characters, Franz and Sabina, are making love.  A lamp is on near the bed, but Franz prefers to keep his eyes closed, especially as the pleasure builds, because doing so allows him to dissolve “into the infinity of his darkness, himself becoming infinite.”  Sabina, however, is repulsed by this, and finding the sight of a closed-eyes Franz distasteful, she closes her own.  Instead of infinity, darkness for her meant “a disagreement with what she saw, the negation of what was seen, the refusal to see.”  Kundera also writes:

Living for Sabina meant seeing.  Seeing is limited by two borders: strong light, which blinds, and total darkness.  Perhaps that was what motivated Sabina’s distaste for all extremism.  Extremes mean borders beyond which life ends, and a passion for extremism, in art and in politics, is a veiled longing for death.

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